LONGINES AVIGATION BIG EYE
Posted on mardi, janvier 16, 2018 at 2:52 PM by Hugo Boss Montre
Les marques de montres dépensent une somme démesurée sur le marketing, s'efforçant d'obtenir des pouces de colonne précieux pour leurs garde-temps. En effet, la notoriété publique des marques horlogères de luxe et des modèles de montres spécifiques est d'une importance vitale pour les maisons de prestige.
Cependant, je trouve rarement l'inspiration pour un article dans un journal ou un magazine, choisissant de chercher des sources alternatives pour des idées éditoriales. Le Grand Prix de l'Horlogerie de Génève (GPHG) est une merveilleuse source d'inspiration. Il accueille de nombreuses montres de mérite, chacune entrant dans l'une de plusieurs catégories. Cependant, seules quelques entreprises réussissent à remporter l'un des prix les plus prisés. Cette année, le gagnant de la catégorie «Revival» était le Longines Avigation Big Eye.
L'inspiration pour le modèle Avigation Big Eye de la marque était un chronographe de pilote acquis pour le musée de la marque. L'Avigation Big Eye capture l'esthétique du passé avec chaque détail soigneusement étudié.
En voyant des images de Longines Avigation Big Eye, je me suis senti obligé de mettre un stylo sur le papier. Cette montre a piqué mon intérêt avec son style d'époque et son rapport qualité-prix. J'ai contacté la marque et pris des dispositions pour qu'un échantillon soit envoyé à mon bureau et une période d'évaluation a suivi.
Le cadran noir a un aspect légèrement brillant et dispose de trois compteurs. Chaque sous-cadran est escargot et se trouve pratiquement aligné avec le plan de numérotation principal. Tous les détails sont subtils et doucement prononcés, à l'exception du chronographe distinctif de 30 minutes qui est grand et audacieux.
Every hour, save for 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, is denoted with Arabic numerals. The numerals are painted and feature luminescent treatment. The baton-shaped hands and said numerals emit a green hue in dim light.
Located at 3 o’clock is a 30-minute chronograph register. It is termed the ‘Big Eye’ and dwarfs the other subdials, assuming a dominant role. The ‘heritage’ inspired design replicates the styling of pilots’ watches from the 1930s. Each short stroke indicates an elapsed minute, while the long strokes signify 3-minute integers.
Longines Avigation Big Eye - chronographe à roue à colonnes avec mouvement calibre LM688
A 12-hour chronograph register is positioned above 6 o’clock and a small seconds display resides at 9 o’clock.
The Longines nomen, located below noon, features vintage typography avec serifs. The references to bygone times are omnipresent.
The Avigation Big Eye eschews a date display, upholding the styling of the original watch. The absence of a date display makes for a clean, uncluttered layout with each indication having sufficient room to breathe easily.
While Longines has upheld the period styling of the 1930s nothing mars the lucidity of dial or the overall practicality of the watch.
The case measures 41mm in diameter making it suitable for most would-be wearers. While Longines does not specify the height of the case, it does appear substantial, imbuing the watch with a robust character.
Both the bezel and case-back are highly polished, with all remaining surfaces featuring satin-brushed treatment. The lugs are short and sharply taper downwards. The leather strap exhibits an aged appearance courtesy of the delightful patination on its surface.
Unlike the original Longines pilot’s watch of the 1930s, the Avigation Big Eye features a scratch resistant sapphire crystal making for a highly practical watch. The numerous coats of anti-reflective treatment confer a glare-free aspect when viewing the dial below. The box-glass sapphire crystal provides the watch with a vintage appearance which proves most becoming.
In common with the scale of the ‘Big Eye’, the push-pieces also exhibit behemoth proportions. Their oversized dimensions allow operation of the pushers with gloved hands, a pre-requisite of the original pilots’ watches. However, practicality is not sacrificed on the alter of style. The push-pieces do not impose their presence upon the wrist with restricted mobility or annoying chafing of the skin. Quite the contrary, exalted levels of comfort are a fundamental strength of this watch.
The self-winding Caliber L688 doffs its cap to modernity. Traditionalists may prefer a hand-wound movement, but the automatic calibre does augment ease of ownership and makes this timepiece ideal for daily use.
Where the Caliber L688 stands out is that it is a column-wheel chronograph. This provides a silken-action to the push-pieces. Moreover, when the stop-watch function is actuated there is no discernible wobble as it leaves its starting position. When the central chronograph seconds hand is reset it lands perfectly on zero without a moments hesitation.
The fact that Longines has delivered a column-wheel chronograph for the modest sum of £1940.00 (RRP as at 30.12.2017) is incredible. Indeed, this chronograph outclasses many inferior cam-actuated chronographs which are often costlier. This aspect has to be attributed to the impressive economies of scale Longines enjoys as part of the Swatch Group. There is a part of me which would have liked to have seen the movement, but I accept traditionalists will agree with Longines’s decision to fit a solid case-back.
Longines has deftly respected tradition with the Avigation Big Eye. The dial layout, painted hands and numerals, box-glass sapphire and solid case-back wonderfully coalesce and uphold the characteristics of the past.
However, Longines has not doggedly held on to the past at the expense of practicality. The sapphire crystal is robust and, in my opinion, technically superior to acrylic. The scale of the watch befits today’s tastes without proving too large. The convenience of a self-winding movement makes the Avigation Big Eye a practical watch for daily wear.
Personally, I feel the biggest attribute of this watch is the Caliber L688 with its column-wheel chronograph. This type of chronograph is technically superior to cam actuated chronographs and usually commands a hefty price premium. Indeed, some cam actuated chronographs are sold for five figure sums. It is therefore surprising that Longines offers this model for the just £1940, making it a bargain.
There are few watch companies which can deliver so much for so little. It is the economies of scale which allow Longines to deliver an impressive timepiece with a broad range of talents for comparatively little.
It is not surprising that Longines won the GPHG ‘Revival’ category. This is a watch that should not only be inspiring to the jury members of the GPHG or journalists looking for a story, but also for watch lovers who appreciate vintage styling and value for money.
voir plus copie de montre et Rolex Milgauss montre
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